Questions we have already answered.

It has been used in both saltwater applications as well as brackish water and performed well.

At 1.0mil dry thickness, you can cover about 1,000 sq feet. Any channels or brakes in the metal tend to collect additional material and affect the coverage. If your surface is perfectly flat and you are using a sprayer, we would recommend approximately 12 gallons plus a 10 to 15% overage, to cover any product lost in transfer, drift, or pooling.

Our product is not a weld through primer, you will need to expose the bare metal to fuse it properly.

It is impossible to assess that with limited information. There are many other factors that come into play, but our product has been tested up to 300F.

Our product has been tested up to 300F.

Typically 24 to 48 hours depending on relative humidity, temperature, airflow, and sun exposure.

This product has been successfully tested for expansion and contraction up to 300F and showed no issues with adhesion. The product might discolor at the higher range, but it did not affect the performance.

This product has been successfully tested for expansion and contraction up to 300F and showed no issues with adhesion. The product might discolor at the higher range, but it did not affect the performance.

No, this product is not for use on aluminum or galvanized steel.

Yes, this product would work to protect almost any ferrous metal product.

It is best to put it down and leave it alone until it cures.

No, we do not recommend transferring leftovers into a smaller container. The instructions and product information label should always be on the container the product is housed.

It is best to use it once it has been opened, but if you cannot. You should try to use the remainder within 3 months. It is imperative that you seal the container well to avoid the product drying out. Any unopened container should be used within 12 months and protected from freezing or superheating while in storage. Once the product has been applied and cured, freezing and heating are no longer an issue. This product is >55% solids, so it will settle over time, make sure to mix or shake it thoroughly before any use.

Yes, as long as there are no other contaminants such as oil or silicone. The presence of moisture in the line might affect the appearance of the final dried product as it could yield an inconsistent spray pattern.

No, it is not, it is a water based product that cures through a typical evaporation process.

The product should be fully cured, before applying another coat. Relative humidity, temperature, airflow, and sun exposure all affect curing; however, we recommend a baseline of 24 to 48 hours to cure completely.

The product should be fully cured, before applying another coat. Relative humidity, temperature, airflow, and sun exposure all affect curing; however, we recommend a baseline of 24 to 48 hours to cure completely.

Yes, the product has been used in many maritime applications with great success. It shows great adhesion when used with an epoxy primer.

The product has not been tested with added dyes, we do not recommend this. It is preferred that you apply a topcoat in the color of your choosing.

This product should not be used on soft metals, such as galvanized steel, aluminum, zinc, lead, etc. It is a low pH product that can etch into soft metals. However, if the galvanization is removed and the surface is solely steel, our product will work effectively.

Absolutely not. After application per instructions, our product expands and contracts with heat and freezing temperatures. This is one of the things that make it so effective, its ability to maintain solid adhesion despite temperature swings. If the product has been in storage or in transit below freezing temperatures you may encounter a change in viscosity that may be simply solved by mixing. An industrial paint mixer is recommended for the 5 gallon pail.

Concrete is no problem.

We do not recommend using our rust converter under 50 degrees.

Our product will protect your pan from further oxidation and thus extending its useful life.

Yes, our product is ideal for all mild steel, stamped plates, cast iron, brackets, and other automotive parts.

Yes, you can use this on bare ferrous metal. Many times there is still minor oxidation that this product will attack and protect. Be sure any oils, grease, or protective coatings are stripped from the bare metal before coating.

It should not make it difficult; it also depends on how you apply the rust converter & primer, with a spray gun, brush, or roll.

Once dried, sanding it will be the best way to remove it.

Our Rust converter has been on the market for over ten years now and is used in many industries such as maritime, automobile, farming.

It is not recommended to use it on anything else than mild steel, stamped plates, cast iron, brackets, and other automotive parts.

Make sure that you follow the label directions and thin the product with no more than 15% water by volume and mix thoroughly. When being used in any sprayer, it is imperative that the directions for the sprayer be followed closely. Straining the final 'thinned' mixture as you put it into any sprayer is recommended by any spray gun manufacturer. The typical pressure used for an HVLP gun is 15 to 25psi, depending on the tip and how thin you reduce the product. The size of the strainer should be relative to the spray nozzle. If you have a 1.4 mil nozzle (ideal); for example, this means that any particle larger than 1.4 mil will clog the gun and adversely affect the performance. Disposable paint strainers are available almost anywhere paint is sold, this would be the preferred recommendation for any spray application. There will always be some level of precipitate that exists, so do not be alarmed if the strainer catches some unincorporated solids. Mix the 2 in 1 or shake it in a paint shaker first; then thin the fully mixed paint with up to 15% water. Mix the thinned paint and then pour it through your paint strainer, directly into the reservoir on the paint gun. This will yield the best coverage and performance.

What you are seeing is some residual salts from the phosphating process. This happens occasionally on very rusted and porous surfaces, it is a byproduct of the rust being converted. In most situations, this can be simply wiped off before applying a top coat. If you use a mild detergent to aid in this process, make sure to rinse thoroughly and let it fully dry before applying the top coat. If you are not applying a top coat, this residue will slough off on its own.

Yes. One coat, our rust converter should be ok.

You can, but it will be harder to control the spray pattern and get a completely uniform coat. It might also slow drying time and decrease coverage area due to putting on a heavier coat. Watch that the nozzle does not clog, this is a high solids product that could cause issues with smaller droplet spray patterns.

If the product does not reach a freezing temperature but gets cool, then it is still usable. However, if it does freeze, there is a chance that it will not be able to be dissolved correctly; thus, we suggest getting rid of the item if it freezes. We cannot guarantee that it will function as intended after freezing. If the product is close to freezing but not completely frozen, we suggest bringing it back up to room temperature and blending it in a paint shaker. This is the most effective way of mixing the product in any situation and particularly if it's been cooled down significantly. Oftentimes, your local home improvement or hardware store will be happy to do this as a courtesy while you're making other purchases. If you are unable to blend it properly in a paint shaker, then a drill mounted paint mixer is the next best choice. However, this technique may leave some residue in the corners of the container or on the bottom that is not reincorporated into the solution which is why it is usually not recommended.

Water is the ONLY solvent that is compatible with the product. It was designed; specifically, as a water based emulsion to eliminate the need for high VOC solvents.

Our 'XionLab 2 in 1 Rust Converter and Primer' can be safely applied even on damp surfaces, so it's capable of withstanding rain. However, you might need to allow extra drying time in such conditions. Once it has fully dried and solidified, you're free to apply your top coat.

You should wait at least 48 hours to ensure the 'XionLab 2 in 1 Rust Converter and Primer' is completely dry and cured before applying a top coat. After this period, there's no specific deadline for applying the top coat; it can be delayed for weeks if necessary. However, before application, ensure that the surface is free from any residue or grease to avoid compromising the final result.

Yes, technically, you can safely shake the rust converter as long as the lid is securely tightened. However, we always recommend using a paint mixer to ensure thorough mixing, especially at the bottom of the container. Our product is 50% solid, meaning heavy particles will settle at the bottom. It's crucial to mix it well before use.

Yes, you may proceed once the substance has cured and bonded with the steel surface. However, please note that some of the pigment might bleed into the fuel, as diesel is a potent solvent. We generally advise applying a top coat with an epoxy layer or a material specifically designed to resist strong solvents like diesel.

We would not recommend this, but please contact the brake drums manufacture, they should be able to help you with this question.

Phosphoric acid in the formula reacts with iron oxide, which is the rust, and converts it into stable iron and zinc phosphates. That reaction stops the oxidation and leaves a corrosion resistant layer that also serves as a primer. The acid micro etches the metal at the same time, so the coating gets a mechanical bite, and on rust it bonds through crystallization of phosphates and aluminum hydroxides.

One properly applied, thick enough coat is usually all it takes. If you are not applying a topcoat, or if heavily pitted areas show rust coming back through the next day, put a second coat on while the first is still wet, ideally within two to four hours. Do not add a coat a day later, because a partly cured coat interrupts the reaction between the rust and the converter and can affect adhesion.

There is no official lifespan rating and no formal warranty. Applied and topcoated correctly it gives multi year corrosion protection, and a UV resistant topcoat makes the biggest difference in desert sun, high heat or repeated sprinkler exposure. If the surface is left uncoated and exposed, inspect it every 12 to 18 months and reapply as needed. In marine service with salt air, humidity and washdown, inspect every 24 to 36 months.

Epoxy primers give better abrasion resistance and stronger full system corrosion resistance, but they need more surface prep, carry higher VOC and breathe less. The rust converter is faster to deploy, especially for touch up work, field repair and unevenly rusted surfaces, and it is designed to hold up to salt spray and brine. In marine or coastal service, topcoat it for maximum longevity. It is not a replacement for galvanic isolation between dissimilar metals.

No. It converts rust and seals ferrous metals such as carbon steel, but it is not formulated to prevent galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. For a mixed metal assembly, especially in marine conditions, you need a dedicated galvanic system such as sacrificial anodes or a coating made for electrochemical isolation, in addition to our product.

Yes, on a steel roof that has started to rust, as long as it is not galvanized. Wire brush or power wash off the loose rust and flaking paint, let the surface dry, and apply when the temperature is between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Let it cure for at least 48 hours, then apply a roof paint or weather resistant topcoat with UV protection. On a steep pitch, work with a harness or roof brackets.

Yes. It holds up under constant submersion, and customers use it on evaporative cooler reservoir pans. It is not certified for potable water, so do not use it on a tank that supplies drinking water. Once fully cured, at least 48 hours, the coating is stable and sealed, and water evaporating off a cured surface is not a known toxicity risk.

Pour in enough product to coat the inside surface. You do not need to fill the tank. Rotate it slowly in every direction, side to side and end over end, for 10 to 15 minutes until every internal surface is evenly coated, then drain the excess, let it air dry and allow at least 48 hours of curing. To check it, wipe the inside with a clean white rag on a stick: if no red residue comes off you are good to go, and if there is light residue, rinse quickly with water and dry the tank completely before adding fuel.

Yes. It converts the existing rust into a stable iron phosphate and forms a corrosion resistant barrier that slows further damage from salt and brine. Chlorides are aggressive enough to break down even converted rust on an unsealed surface, so a topcoat matters here. Cure for at least 48 hours, then apply a chloride resistant topcoat such as an automotive enamel, epoxy or urethane, or a rubberized bed liner style coating on undercarriage parts.

They do different jobs. The 2-in-1 Rust Converter & Metal Primer converts existing rust into a protective barrier and leaves a primer base, so it goes straight onto rusted iron or steel with no sandblasting. A high zinc primer gives sacrificial protection but is meant for bare, clean or freshly sandblasted steel. Use the converter on rusted steel and a zinc primer on new or sandblasted steel.

It does not fall into a standard industry category. It is a rust converter that also works as a primer, so it does not build film or level a surface the way a high build primer does. It is compatible with virtually any topcoat, including oil based, water based, epoxy, urethane and enamel paints, once it has cured for 48 hours.

It has been tested to withstand up to 300 degrees Fahrenheit, so it works on the cooler parts of an exhaust system such as mufflers and tailpipes. Do not use it on exhaust manifolds or on pipe close to the engine, where temperatures regularly go past 300 degrees and the coating will fail. Clean the surface before applying and let it cure fully before it sees any heat.

It is not aggressive toward plastic or rubber, so a small amount on bushings or suspension components will not damage them. Wipe off the excess anyway to keep things clean and avoid buildup over time.

Yes, as long as there is rust to convert and there are no holes or active leaks. Check first that the gutters are steel and not aluminum, zinc, copper or unweathered galvanized metal, since the product is made for ferrous metals. Clean out the loose rust, dirt, oil and debris, let it dry, then brush or roll it straight onto the rusted areas and let it cure at least 48 hours. A topcoat is not required, but it helps for long term weather protection.

Yes, and that is a good way to reach internal areas you cannot get to by hand. It is thicker than standard paint, so dilute it with up to 15 percent water depending on your nozzle size, though five to ten percent is often enough, and stir until completely uniform. Make sure the inside is dry and free of loose debris, apply a generous even coat, and let it cure for 48 hours before sealing or topcoating.

The product data sheet documents ASTM B117 salt spray at 1,000 hours with no blistering or underfilm corrosion, QUV ultraviolet exposure under ASTM G53 at 1,000 hours with only very slight discoloration, ASTM D3359 cross cut adhesion at 100 percent before and after testing, and thermal cycle testing for 2,160 hours at 300 degrees Fahrenheit with no blistering, peeling, corrosion or color change. Further testing is in progress, including UV weathering, cryogenic bend flexibility and sand abrasion resistance, and we update the technical documentation as results come in.

No. It is a thick formula and it separates in shipping, so it has to be mixed very thoroughly before use. Once it is stirred properly it comes back to its normal consistency. It is not water.

A tacky, uneven finish with poor adhesion almost always points to application conditions rather than the product. The converter needs direct contact with rust or clean bare metal, a surface free of oil, grease and paint, thorough mixing before use, and adequate temperature and cure time. Write to us with the surface you treated, how rusty it was, how you prepared it, whether you brushed, rolled or sprayed, how many coats went on and how long it cured, and we will tell you what happened and make it right.

Only where bare rust is exposed. The product has to touch the rust to bond with it, so it cannot work through paint, an oxidized film or an intact coating, and rust under paint keeps spreading until the paint bubbles, scales or peels. Wire brush, sand or strip the loose and flaking paint off the rusted areas to expose the rust, apply the converter there, and repaint once it has cured. Where the existing paint is sound, leave it alone and treat only the rusted or bare spots, such as around welds.

A small wire brush or a rust removal wheel on a flexible extension gets into most corners. Where you cannot scrape at all, make sure the area is dry and free of loose debris and apply the product generously, since it converts rust wherever it makes contact. For spot welded seams and overlaps, work it into the edges with a small brush or a syringe style applicator, and know that it will not reach into a fully sealed overlap. Allow at least 48 hours of cure before any topcoat or seam sealer.

No. The 2-in-1 Rust Converter & Metal Primer is made to go directly over rust. Remove only the loose flaky rust, dirt and debris with a wire brush or a similar tool so the product makes good contact, then apply it over the rust that remains.

No, we do not recommend it. Both products are rust converters, and stacking one on the other interferes with bonding and chemical performance. If an acid treatment has already been applied, rinse and neutralize the surface thoroughly and let it dry completely before any new coating. Choose one treatment or the other, not both.

This step decides whether the coating bonds, because any fuel, oil or grease left on the metal will stop it from bonding. Drain the tank completely, then cut the oily film with a strong industrial degreaser, acetone or mineral spirits, with proper ventilation and fire safety precautions. Scrub the walls with abrasive pads or brushes, rinse with hot water or a pressure washer, and repeat until nothing feels slick or oily. Wipe with clean rags and dry completely, using compressed air for the spots you cannot reach.

No. It is not designed to bond to stainless steel or to sound epoxy coating, so it belongs only where it can touch rusted or bare ferrous metal. Remove the loose rust and the failing epoxy with a needle gun or wire wheel first, and keep the product off exposed stainless wherever you can. Where a stainless weld has left exposed carbon steel in the heat affected zone, you can treat those rusted areas.

The product is made for iron and steel and is not recommended for galvanized surfaces. A small amount landing on galvanizing is generally not a major concern, but do not deliberately coat areas where the zinc is still intact. Where the galvanized coating has worn away completely and the steel underneath is bare or rusted, you can treat those spots, and after 48 hours of cure you can topcoat them with a cold galvanizing paint. Test compatibility on a small area first.

No. Our product bonds with rusted metal, it does not strip paint or coatings. For faster prep, use a chemical paint stripper or a pressure washer with a turbo nozzle to knock off flaking paint and rust, then follow with a quick wire brush pass. You only need to remove the loose or flaking areas, not every bit of paint.

Almost anything, as long as the coating has fully cured first, which takes at least 48 hours. Urethane, epoxy, enamel in oil or water based form, alkyd, acrylic or latex, bitumen and chlorinated rubber all work over it, and it does not need a paint that bonds to bare metal because the primer layer is already there. For metal that stays outside, pick a topcoat with weather resistance, UV protection and rust inhibiting properties. Test your topcoat on a small area before doing the whole surface.

No. We have not tested every topcoat on the market, so we cannot guarantee a specific brand combination. Once the converter is fully cured, at least 48 hours, it generally provides a solid base for most systems, including marine grade epoxies. Strong solvents such as acetone can compromise the bond, so test a small inconspicuous area first and follow the topcoat manufacturer's instructions.

No. It acts as a primer and stops the rust on its own, so a topcoat is optional if you are happy with the finish. Add one if you want a specific color, UV protection or extra durability, and apply it only after the product has fully cured, which takes at least 48 hours. If you are not topcoating at all, put a second coat on while the first is still wet.

The usual cause is topcoating too early. Moisture gets trapped and the coating delaminates, so allow a full cure of at least 48 hours, and longer on heavy rust or in wet and humid conditions. The cured surface is smooth, so for a demanding urethane scuff it lightly with 220 to 320 grit for mechanical adhesion. The converter also has to sit directly on rusted or bare ferrous metal, with no paint, oil or grease trapped underneath.

Yes. It dries to a red oxide color and it is a primer, so you can topcoat it with any color and any type of paint, including white enamel. Let it cure fully first, at least 48 hours, and apply more than one coat if your paint has low opacity. If you want a lighter base you can put a white or gray primer over the red oxide, though that is not required.

Use an automotive grade paint, such as a 2K urethane in your vehicle color, so the color matches and the finish holds up. For small touch ups a matched automotive spray paint is easier. Add a clear coat over the color for extra UV and weather resistance.

We have not had specific feedback from customers doing this, but based on the chemistry we do not see a need to sand or scuff the cured surface first. Final adhesion depends on the liner, since some formulas carry their own adhesive components while others rely on surface texture. The important part is that the converter is fully cured before anything goes on top, so wait at least 48 hours, and longer in high humidity.

Yes. Once the converter has fully cured for at least 48 hours it generally provides a good base for silicone roofing coatings. Remove all loose rust first, apply the converter directly to the rusted or bare steel, and let it cure completely before the silicone goes on. Silicone products vary by manufacturer, so run a small compatibility test in an inconspicuous spot first.

After. The converter has to make direct contact with rust or bare metal, so a sealer applied first blocks the reaction. Treat the rust, let it cure fully, then seal over the converted areas only. We do not recommend specific sealer brands because we do not manufacture or test them.

No. There are no known negative reactions between iron oxide pigments and the zinc phosphate in our coating, so it can overlap an existing red oxide primer without a problem.

Once fully cured, the black dries to a low sheen satin finish rather than a gloss. It is still a primer, so you can topcoat it with the paint of your choice if you want a different sheen or added durability.

Wait at least 48 hours after the coat goes on before loading, launching or putting the piece back to work. That gives the coating time to complete the chemical conversion and develop its adhesion and corrosion resistance, and loading it sooner can damage the film before it hardens. If the piece sees water or road salt regularly, add a durable topcoat once it has cured.

A gallon covers about 1,000 sq ft brushed or rolled on smooth steel, and closer to 530 sq ft through a sprayer or on pitted metal. A pint covers roughly 60 to 65 sq ft on rough or pitted metal, and up to about 125 sq ft spread thinly on smooth steel. Heavily rusted or uneven surfaces always use more. For a real example, one gallon normally covers the inside of both frame rails on a truck, the crossmembers and touch up spots.

The 2-in-1 Rust Converter & Metal Primer comes in pint, gallon and five gallon sizes, in Red Oxide and Black, and you order it online directly from our website. It is the only rust primer we make, so there is no separate quick drying rust stop primer or other primer line. Email us if you want help placing an order or need a quote.

Yes. We email the current Safety Data Sheet as a PDF on request, and we can confirm whether the version you already hold is the latest one on file for the United States market. All of our safety data sheets are GHS compliant. If a revision is issued later, we are happy to send the updated version.

Those compounds are present in low percentages and are standard in protective coatings. Zinc phosphate is a corrosion inhibiting pigment that stays bound in the dried film, barium sulfate is inert in a cured coating, and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether is a low VOC solvent common in water based formulas, present below regulatory thresholds for consumer products. Total VOC content is below 1 percent, which makes it workable indoors and in areas sensitive to flammable products.

No. The low pH comes from the phosphoric acid that drives the rust conversion, and that acid is consumed as it reacts with the rust and the steel. Once the coating has fully cured, typically after 48 hours, there is no active acidity left. That is why the cured film is safe to topcoat, including with water based acrylics and elastomeric liquid rubber coatings.

Thickening and clumping come from long storage, temperature swings and air getting into the container, and the product has a limited shelf life once opened. You can usually bring it back by mixing in a small amount of water gradually and stirring slowly until it is smooth and spreadable again. That will not restore factory condition, but it will do the job for general rust treatment. If it is too far gone to mix back, send us the batch code from the label with your order details and we will work out a solution.

Our products are not tested on animals and, to the best of our knowledge, the formula contains no animal derived ingredients. It is an industrial water based formula built from mineral and synthetic components. We do recommend keeping it off surfaces animals chew, lick, scratch heavily or use for food and water, unless you put a topcoat suited to animal environments over it.

No. It is water based and low in VOC, under 1 percent, but the rust converting and corrosion inhibiting chemistry means it is not fully biodegradable.

Yes. It is safe for acrylic liner.

No. This product will not work on mineral/calcium clogs. For mineral/calcium clogs you will need a descaling product that is usually acid based. XionLab Safer Drain Opener will work on hair and grease clogs.

Water, Xanthan Gum, Alcohol Ethoxylate, Modified Magnesium Silicate.

No. You do not dilute this product. For severely blocked drains, pour 16oz. (1/2 bottle) into the drain and allow the product to work overnight. Heat up 3 to 5 cups of water in the microwave and pour hot water into the drain. If the problem persists, a second application may be necessary. For mild obstructed drains that have slow running water, pour 16oz. (1/2 bottle) into the drain and allow the product to work for at least 2 hours. Heat up 3 to 5 cups of water in the microwave and pour hot water into the drain. If the problem persists, a second application may be necessary. For regular drain maintenance, pour 16oz. (1/2 bottle) into the drain and allow the product to work for at least 30 minutes, and flush with hot water. If the problem persists, a second application may be necessary.

YES. If used as directed this drain opener will be safe for your RV's holding tank system.

The product is not registered herbicide so we make no claims that it will eat the roots or kill any vegetation inside of the pipes. It will help to clear the junk caught up in the roots. It will help to clear organic matter that can be obstructing drain flow. It dissolves hair and grease in pipes.

Yes. Usually restaurant drains have grease clogs, so yes, this product works on grease clogs as well. Sometimes restaurant drains are clogged by non organic material, like food, or plastic, and in that case, this product will not work, and we would recommend an acid based drain de clogger. There are cases where food and plastic and other non organic material are being held up in the pipes because of excess grease on the pipes. Using our product cleans the grease from pipes and then the other non organic material flows away.

It does break down the grease that is causing the foul odor, and that is usually what a slow drain and a bad smell come down to. If the smell is coming from somewhere other than grease in the line, write to us at info@xionlab.com and we will tell you straight whether this is the right product for it.

Yes. Just follow the directions that are on the bottle label.

No. It's designed to dissolve grease and hair.

We are a family owned business. Our family shares Christian values. We do not consider ourselves right, or left winged. We are just grateful that our God has blessed us, and we like to bless others as well. We share our faith because the owner of our business suffered from drug addiction for many years. After trying many different drug addiction treatment options, the only thing that worked for him was a Christian based drug addiction treatment program. Thank God, the owner of our business has been able to stay drug free for more than 10 years now, and his goal is to help others live a drug addiction free life. That is why a % of all our sales go to a non profit organization that helps cure and prevent drug addiction. Drug addiction almost destroyed our family, and since the moment we started living a Jesus centered life, we have been able to live a life full of blessings. Hope you can understand that this is the reason we try to honor our God thru our products.

Liquid Fire is a sulfuric acid based drain opener. Acid based drain openers work very fast and even digest nonorganic matter like plastics, paper, and even food particles. The downside of using an acid based drain opener is that they are very toxic, they can damage the plumbing pipes, they release toxic foul odor fumes when used, and the user has to take extra precautions when using since it can cause skin, or clothes to burn. Xion Lab's Safer Drain Opener is not an acid based drain opener. Xion Lab uses a proprietary formula that does not work as fast as an acid based formula, but it does work a lot faster than many SAFE drain openers in the market. Xion Lab drain opener is a perfect balance between power and safety. It is odorless, biodegradable, does not produce toxic fumes when used, and is pipe and septic safe. Xion Lab drain opener will NOT work for drains clogged with paper, plastics, or food. If you have a clogged problem caused by hair or grease, then the Xion Lab drain opener will work perfectly. We recommend you leave the Xion Lab drain opener working overnight (6 to 8 hours) and then flush it with hot water.

There are many ways cat hair can get to your drains, but drain clogs are tricky because you can never be 100% sure what is causing your clog. If the clog is caused by hair or grease, this product is very effective. For severe clogs, pour 16 ounces of this product into the drain and let it work overnight, following the directions on the bottle, and then flush with boiling water. If you are not sure how long to leave it for your drain, write to info@xionlab.com or use the contact form and a person will tell you. If the clog is caused by paper, plastic or anything other than hair, or grease, this product will not work.

No. Usually toilet clogs are due to paper obstructions. This product will not dissolve the paper. This product is for hair and grease clogs usually found in sinks, or shower drains. For toilets that are clogged, it is better to use an acid based drain opener, a snake, or a plunger.

Safer Drain Opener is designed to target greases and oils, common components in hair conditioners, and drain slime in general. Toothpaste is usually mixed with these as well so by dissolving the grease it should release the toothpaste and allow it to flush down the drain.

Yes. It will work on breaking down soap scum build up in the pipes.

Yes. This product is safe for all types of pipes. And yes, you can put it in the disposal.

Yes. This is a cruelty free product. Non of XIONLAB products are tested on animals.

The product is safe for the stainless double sink. I presume that you are asking about the connection where the dishwasher connects to the actual drain pipe. This connection should not be an issue either. We do not recommend that you use it in dishwashers for the simple fact that we cannot verify the types of seals that are in the appliance and if there might be any incompatibility. For applications like you are describing, we recommend that you use the product as instructed and run your dishwasher through a cycle once the blockage has been cleared. This will help to ensure that any residual product that might have inadvertently gone down the dishwasher drain line, is completely flushed out.

No. This product is not meant to kill sewer flies. It can help break down the grease on the pipes that attract the flies, and clearing that grease out is what brings the flies under control.

Yes. This will work on a clogged washing machine drain. Please leave the product working overnight, following the directions on the bottle, and then flush it with hot water. If you are not sure how long to leave it for your drain, write to info@xionlab.com or use the contact form and a person will tell you.

Yes it will. Just follow the instruction on the bottle and it will work perfectly to unclog lint related drain clogs.

The product can be used on the drain of an inground pool. It will only work if the obstruction is organic in nature. There could be plastic in the line and it would not be clear that. For plastic clogs, we recommend an acid based drain opener or a snake. We would only use it if the pool is currently drained, otherwise, it will be difficult to get it to the source of the drain, since it is such a large body of water and it is typically not a steep incline towards the drain like in a sink. Pool drains are typically PVC, so there should be no issue with the plumbing.

Yes. For Laterals: Pour 1 gallon (that would be 4 bottles of this product) into the drain upstream and as close to the obstruction as possible. For Sewer Mains: Pour 2 to 4 gallons (8 to 16 bottles of this product) into the manhole or drain upstream and as close to the obstruction as possible. For best results, use regularly to keep the sewer main open and free flowing.

Yes. Usually garbage disposal clogs are caused by food that is stuck in build on grease on the pipes. Our product will soften the grease and allow the food particles to flow. If you have a lot of food particles clogging the pipe, then we recommend an acid based drain opener.

While our product is milder than traditional drain openers, I am sure that extended exposure could have a similar effect on the countertops. If you use our product with Quartz countertops, try to minimize contact with quartz, and if contact is done, please wipe with a wet cloth to remove any product from the quartz surface.

This type of system specifically states not to use caustic drain openers. Because I'm not sure what type of bacteria they utilize in their system, I don't know that we would recommend this product for this application.

Our product will not dissolve food particles. For that, you need an acid based drain opener. Most food particles get stuck in the accumulated grease on the pipes. If this is the case, our product will dissolve the grease and the food particles will flow away and your drain will be cleared.

This product does not contain sodium hydroxide.

If the inner safety seal is intact and unbroken, the product is still safe and effective to use. A missing or loose outer lid can let a little product escape when pressure changes in transit, but it does not affect the product inside. The formula is stable and will still work after a year on the shelf. If you would rather not use it, send us a photo of the bottle and we will replace it.

Send us your order number and photos of the container. We ship a replacement right away at no cost so you can keep moving on your project, and the photos go to our fulfillment team so the packaging gets reviewed. If a replacement is damaged in transit as well, we refund the item in full rather than ask you to wait for a third shipment. In most leaks the inner seal is still intact and the product inside is fine to use.

The completion email is generated when the order leaves processing, which is not always the moment a carrier picks it up. Until the carrier scans the package there is no tracking number to give you. As soon as tracking is generated we send you the number and the estimated delivery date. You can also email us at any time and we will look up the current status.

When demand outruns inventory we can be out of stock with no confirmed restock date, and that sometimes happens after a card has already been charged. You can keep the order and we will flag it as high priority the moment stock is replenished, or we will cancel it and refund you in full immediately. If five gallon pails are on backorder, we can usually ship the same material as multiple one gallon units instead, with delivery in about a week.

We do not offer phone support. Everything is handled by email, and we answer application questions in writing with a prep and application plan for your specific surface. Send us the surface, its condition and what you plan to put over it. For a large job, test a small section first so you can see the result before committing to the whole surface.

We check the tracking with the carrier and tell you exactly where the package stands. If it is simply running late, we confirm the expected delivery date with the carrier and pass that on to you. If tracking has been stuck with no meaningful updates and the package appears lost, we ship a replacement at no extra cost and send you a new tracking number.

Returns on orders placed on our website must be requested within 30 days of purchase. Email us your order number and proof of purchase and we will send return instructions. Returns are inspected on arrival and may carry a restocking fee depending on condition. A refund needs either the product returned or photo documentation, so if it has already been thrown away we cannot process one.

Yes, and we handle them directly by email. Send the company name, billing and shipping addresses, the quantity and size you need, a contact name, any preferred delivery date, and whether the delivery point is commercial with a dock or forklift. We come back with the pallet configuration, pricing, shipping cost and estimated delivery, and we can issue a formal quote or invoice in advance. We do not have strict account requirements.

We do not ship to Hawaii, Alaska or Puerto Rico at this time, and we sell only within the United States. We hope to open more destinations in the future. For addresses we do serve, ordering direct from us is generally the fastest route, and expedited options are available when you place the order.

Yes. The rust converter is manufactured and packaged entirely in the United States, and production is controlled in house from start to finish.

No. When the order was placed on another retailer's platform, the refund has to go through their return process and we cannot issue one on our side. Start the return in your account with that retailer and the refund is processed once they receive the item. If the return runs into trouble, send us the order reference and we will contact them to escalate it.

Once an order has been processed and shipped, the address can no longer be changed on our end. Watch the tracking closely and contact the carrier directly, since they can sometimes redirect a package that is already moving.

No. Once an order is in the fulfillment process we cannot expedite it or switch it to a faster shipping method. We can tell you the current estimated delivery window and send tracking as soon as a carrier is assigned. If that timing does not work for your project, we can cancel the order and refund you instead.

No. We do not private label the rust converter. All production stays under our own brand so quality and transparency stay consistent.

The headspace is intentional. Gallon containers are filled with room to expand so the product does not leak or burp during shipping when temperatures change in transit. You still receive a full 128 oz gallon. If a container looks significantly underfilled, send us a photo and we will look into it.