Rust Converter & Metal Primer

You can, but it will be harder to control the spray pattern and get a completely uniform coat. It might also slow drying time and decrease coverage area due to putting on a heavier coat. Watch that the nozzle does not clog, this is a high solids product that could cause issues with smaller droplet spray patterns.

Yes…one coat, our rust converter should be ok.

What you are seeing is some residual salts from the phosphating process. This happens occasionally on very rusted and porous surfaces, it is a byproduct of the rust being converted.  In most situations, this can be simply wiped off before applying a top coat. If you use a mild detergent to aid in this process, make sure to rinse thoroughly and let fully dry before applying the top coat. If you are not applying a top coat, this residue will slough off on its own.

Make sure that you follow the label directions and thin the product with no more than 20% water by volume and mix thoroughly.

When being used in any sprayer, it is imperative that the directions for the sprayer be followed closely. Straining the final ‘thinned’ mixture as you put it into any sprayer is recommended by any spray gun manufacturer. Typical pressure used for an HVLP gun is 15-25psi, depending on the tip and how thin you reduce the product.

The size of the strainer should be relative to the spray nozzle. If you have a 1.4 mil nozzle (ideal); for example, this means that any particle larger than 1.4 mil will clog the gun and adversely affect the performance. Disposable paint strainers are available almost anywhere paint is sold, this would be the preferred recommendation for any spray application.

There will always be some level of precipitate that exists, so do not be alarmed if the strainer catches some unincorporated solids.

Mix the 2 in 1 or shake it in a paint shaker first; then thin the fully mixed paint with up to 20% water. Mix the thinned paint and then pour it through your paint strainer, directly into the reservoir on the paint gun. This will yield the best coverage and performance.

It is not recommended to use it on anything else than mild steel, stamped plates, cast iron, brackets, and other automotive parts.

Our Rust converter has been on the market for over ten years now and is used in many industries such as maritime, automobile, farming...

Once dried, sanding it will be the best way to remove it.

It should not make it difficult; it also depends on how you apply the rust converter & primer, with a spray gun, brush, or roll.

Applying the product with a spray gun is a very easy process. We recommend diluting the product 20% with water and running it through a strainer, fine enough to catch any particles that are larger than the openings in the tip. Only dilute what you are going to spray and discard any unused portion, just like any other coating. Clean the gun with simple water and a small brush. Follow the manufacture’s recommendations for disassembly and cleaning of the spray gun. 

Yes, you can use this on bare ferrous metal. Many times there is still minor oxidation that this product will attack and protect. Be sure any oils, grease, or protective coatings are stripped from the bare metal before coating.

Yes, our product is ideal for all mild steel, stamped plates, cast iron, brackets, and other automotive parts.

Our product will protect your pan from further oxidation and thus extending its useful life.

We do not recommend using our rust converter under 50 degrees.

Applying the product with a spray gun is a very easy process. We recommend diluting the product 20% with water and running it through a strainer, fine enough to catch any particles that are larger than the openings in the tip. Only dilute what you are going to spray and discard any unused portion, just like any other coating. Clean the gun with simple water and a small brush. Follow the manufacture’s recommendations for disassembly and cleaning of the spray gun. 

Concrete is no problem.

Absolutely not. Our product expands and contracts with heat and freezing temperatures. This is one of the things that make it so effective, is the ability to maintain solid adhesion despite temperature swings.

This product should not be used on soft metals, such as galvanizing. It is a low pH product that will etch into soft metals. If the galvanization is gone and it is only steel, our product will work well. 

The product has not been tested with added dyes, we do not recommend this. It is preferred that you apply a topcoat in the color of your choosing.

Yes, the product has been used in many maritime applications with great success. It shows great adhesion when used with an epoxy primer.

The product should be fully cured, before applying another coat. Relative humidity, temperature, airflow, and sun exposure all affect curing; however, we recommend a baseline of 24-48 hours to cure completely.

The product should be fully cured, before applying another coat. Relative humidity, temperature, airflow, and sun exposure all affect curing; however, we recommend a baseline of 24-48 hours to cure completely.

No, it is not, it is a water-based product that cures through a typical evaporation process.

Yes, as long as there are no other contaminants such as oil or silicone. The presence of moisture in the line might affect the appearance of the final dried product as it could yield an inconsistent spray pattern.

It is best to use it up once it has been opened, but if you cannot…you should try to use the remainder within 3 months. It is imperative that you seal the container well to avoid the product drying out. Any unopened container should be used within 12 months and protected from freezing or superheating while in storage. Once the product has been applied and cured, freezing and heating are no longer an issue. This product is >50% solids, so it will settle over time, make sure to mix or shake it thoroughly before any use. 

No, we do not recommend transferring leftovers into a smaller container. The instructions and product information label should always be on the container the product is housed.

It is best to put it down and leave it alone until it cures.

Yes, this product would work to protect almost any ferrous metal product.

No, this product is not for use on aluminum or galvanized steel.

This product has been successfully tested for expansion and contraction up to 300F and showed no issues with adhesion. The product might discolor at the higher range, but it did not affect the performance.

This product has been successfully tested for expansion and contraction up to 300F and showed no issues with adhesion. The product might discolor at the higher range, but it did not affect the performance.

Typically 24-48 hours depending on relative humidity, temperature, airflow, and sun exposure.

Our product has been tested up to 300F.

It is impossible to assess that with limited information. There are many other factors that come into play, but our product has been tested up to 300F.

Our product is no a weld-through primer, you will need to expose the bare metal to fuse it properly.

At 1.0mil dry thickness, you can cover about 1,000 sq feet. Any channels or brakes in the metal tend to collect additional material and affect the coverage. If your surface is perfectly flat and you are using a sprayer, we would recommend approximately 12 gallons plus a 10-15% overage, to cover any product lost in transfer, drift, or pooling.

It has been used in both saltwater applications as well as brackish water and performed well.