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Rust converters have become more popular as a DIY solution to heavy rust. It helps to save a lot of different metals, including gold and silver, from corrosion and decay. Usually, metals that are exposed to direct sunlight or stay out in the sun a lot develop rust. This is because such metals are usually unprotected against harsh weather and oxygen.
When oxidation takes place on the metal object, rust forms. So when to use rust converters on metal is when they begin to be rusty. The car owners, property owners, and homeowners should all educate themselves more on rust converters since they can save a lot of their belongings from being ruined by rust. There are a number of different kinds of rust converters that can be used on metal. However, the most popular ones include:
1) Waterless Rust Converter
This is one of the best rust converters to use on rusty metals. It helps to remove all traces of oxidation from your valuable metals and other objects. So it will help you in preventing corrosion and rusting to take place again, as well as saving you money by not having to buy paint or other products for this purpose.
2) Pure Salt Lime Rust Converter
This product works very efficiently in removing all signs of oxidation from your metal surfaces and even helps restore them back to their original color after using it for some time. As an added advantage, you don’t have to worry about any chemicals being released into the environment due to its natural composition.
3) Soft Water Rust Converter
The soft water rust converter works very effectively in removing unsightly scratches and stains from iron pipes…
When to Use a Rust Converter?
If a chemical reaction takes place between a metal object and external elements like oxygen, moisture, and direct sunlight, it forms an orange-brownish crust on the surface. This layer causes the object to decay so this is the answer to using rust converters.
Rust converters are the best option for when metal objects begin to develop rust. It saves the object and allows you to avoid replacing it with a cheaper version of its design.
Rust will corrode the metal, which is why it is important to take care of it as soon as possible so that you don’t have to spend lots of money on an expensive replacement. Rust also looks really bad on any object and can easily spoil your aesthetic appeal if not taken care of properly. Rust weakens the metal until the object itself has been ruined and needs to be replaced or repaired.
The worst situation for rust is when it develops on objects that are bearing the weight of other belongings, goods, or even the structure of your house. If the bolts on your chairs sustain damage, someone can be hurt if they collapse under the weight. As the rusting process continues and oxidation occurs, the metal will continue to get corroded until it collapses under its own weight. It can also cause any other metal to corrode.
You should always use rust converters on metals that are subjected to direct sunlight a lot or are in contact with the elements like water, dust, and even salt. If you use them on these kinds of materials, they can actually prevent corrosion from taking place.
If you want to know when to use converters, it is best to do so at one time. This is because rust always has bacteria called tetanus in it. Any individual must avoid tetanus because it can kill, even in less severe cases. Even in less severe cases, tetanus creates several health issues if it enters the bloodstream. It can cause paralysis and even freeze the muscles if not treated quickly and correctly.
The important thing to do when you notice rust on your belongings is to take action. While doing so protect yourself and your family members from the health problems that it causes. The best way to prevent rust is to keep an eye on the metal objects that you use. You should always be careful when handling them so that they don’t get damaged or scratched. Also, if you notice rust forming on any of your belongings, it is best to invest in a rust converter immediately.
Types of rusts that can be used as a rust converter.
Different kinds of rust develop from different conditions and can be countered with rust converters.
1. Process-Related Rusting
While working with metal parts, some primary participants may be exposed to oxidation. Some production activity that can harm the metal includes heat treating, handling processes, machining, cold working, metal fabrication, and cleaning activity. This exposes the metal to harsh conditions like oxygen and moisture. This causes corrosion to spread and rest in brownish-orange rust on the surface of the object.
Usually, you should not use one on a new item, as the producer could have contaminated the original metal in the production plant. This is why industrial plants need to be regulated so that oxidation does not develop.
2. Rusting due to Air
Air is a good oxidizer and can cause corrosion to form on metal objects. When you open the window and let in air, this causes oxidation of the metal objects that are located near it. This can be your furniture or even your car’s body panels. If you want to prevent this from happening, make sure that you keep all of your items in an area where they cannot be exposed to air and moisture.
3. Corrosion Due to Oils
Oil is another type of corrosive substance found in nature that can corrode metals if present in large amounts at certain places such as engine oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, lubricants for machinery parts etcetera. The life span of these oils will also decrease gradually with time if not handled properly by the user or if stored improperly at low temperatures, especially during winter months when the temperature drops below freezing point (0°C). Therefore it is important for users of these fluids too.
Does rust converter actually work?
There are a lot of DIY videos online that actually recommend using non-toxic household ingredients, detergents, and cleaners to remove the rust. However, these methods can cause damage to the metal. Cleaners also have high levels of acidic properties that can eat away at the metal. This is why it is best to use a rust converter instead.
There are many different types of rust converters that can be used for various purposes, and we will go over some of these below. If you need more information on this topic, be sure to visit the manufacturer’s website to view their product pages.
Rust Converter vs Deoxit- Rust converters are chemical products that contain chemicals that have been specially formulated by the manufacturers who have developed them. These chemicals have been tested in laboratory conditions and proven effective at removing rust from certain metals or other materials. They do not cause any damage to the metal itself, but they do remove corrosion with ease once applied properly (as long as you follow all instructions). Deoxit is also an option for removing ferric oxide, but it does not work as well as a rust converter because it does not contain any special ingredients designed specifically for removing oxidation from metal objects.
How Do Rust Converters Work?
The compound tannic acid and the polymer are chemically compatible. That is, when the two substances react together, they form a solid mixture called iron tannate. The process of making this black paste is also very simple because it only involves mixing two components – water and tannic acid. It’s just like combining vinegar and baking soda in order to make toothpaste! Once the two substances have been combined, they react to form a black paste that is more than 99% pure iron tannate. This means that there are no impurities in it and that it contains very little water so it is non-drip and will not stain your items.
The chemicals used by Rust Converters are formulated to be strong enough to penetrate into the rust particles or metal surfaces where they can break them down with ease. The result of this process is an iron tannate compound that has greater corrosion-resistance properties than any other antirust agent on the market today. It also works well at removing stains caused by acids, oils, greases, fuels etcetera because these types of stains cannot be removed by using just any type of cleaner or detergent.
Rust converters do not damage metals in any way as long as you follow all instructions carefully!
The paint adds a layer of protection against many contaminants, especially when mixed in with the primer layer created by the organic polymer. This mixture has protective qualities that can protect the metal from direct sunlight, rain, and salt mist due to coastal areas which have all these factors combined. The paint is applied so that the surface will not peel off or crack.. The chemicals used to remove rust from metal are formulated to be strong enough to penetrate into the rust particles or metal surfaces where they can break them down with ease. The result of this process is an iron tannate compound that has greater corrosion-resistance properties than any other antirust agent on the market today. It also works well at removing stains caused by acids, oils, greases, fuels etcetera because these types of stains cannot be removed by using just any type of cleaner or detergent.
Some Helpful Tips
Even though you know when to use rust converters, you will still need the tips below to help you with their proper usage:
- Wear goggles or safety glasses and chemically resistant gloves.
- Store in a dark place at room temperature.
- Do not use powder coating since it doesn’t mix with the primer well.
- Dispose of rust converters according to local state or federal laws.
For more helpful tips, visit our 2-in-1 XionLab Rust converter and Primer page.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, you can do this. However, if the underlying rust is not removed and the edges of the paint are not feathery, then it will not last as long. The product can only treat what it comes in contact with and if a layer of rust is on all sides, it will act as a ring around the paint, preventing any new material from penetrating.
If there is oxidation under the paint, eventually that paint will fail to adhere and it will take the rust converter with it.
You can, but it will be harder to control the spray pattern and get a completely uniform coat. It might also slow drying time and decrease coverage area due to putting on a heavier coat. Watch that the nozzle does not clog, this is a high solids product that could cause issues with smaller droplet spray patterns.
Yes…one coat, our rust converter should be ok.
What you are seeing is some residual salts from the phosphating process. This happens occasionally on very rusted and porous surfaces, it is a byproduct of the rust being converted. In most situations, this can be simply wiped off before applying a top coat. If you use a mild detergent to aid in this process, make sure to rinse thoroughly and let fully dry before applying the top coat. If you are not applying a top coat, this residue will slough off on its own.
Make sure that you follow the label directions and thin the product with no more than 20% water by volume and mix thoroughly.
When being used in any sprayer, it is imperative that the directions for the sprayer be followed closely. Straining the final ‘thinned’ mixture as you put it into any sprayer is recommended by any spray gun manufacturer. Typical pressure used for an HVLP gun is 15-25psi, depending on the tip and how thin you reduce the product.
The size of the strainer should be relative to the spray nozzle. If you have a 1.4 mil nozzle (ideal); for example, this means that any particle larger than 1.4 mil will clog the gun and adversely affect the performance. Disposable paint strainers are available almost anywhere paint is sold, this would be the preferred recommendation for any spray application.
There will always be some level of precipitate that exists, so do not be alarmed if the strainer catches some unincorporated solids.
Mix the 2 in 1 or shake it in a paint shaker first; then thin the fully mixed paint with up to 20% water. Mix the thinned paint and then pour it through your paint strainer, directly into the reservoir on the paint gun. This will yield the best coverage and performance.
It is not recommended to use it on anything else than mild steel, stamped plates, cast iron, brackets, and other automotive parts.
Our Rust converter has been on the market for over ten years now and is used in many industries such as maritime, automobile, farming...
Once dried, sanding it will be the best way to remove it.
It should not make it difficult; it also depends on how you apply the rust converter & primer, with a spray gun, brush, or roll.
Applying the product with a spray gun is a very easy process. We recommend diluting the product 20% with water and running it through a strainer, fine enough to catch any particles that are larger than the openings in the tip. Only dilute what you are going to spray and discard any unused portion, just like any other coating. Clean the gun with simple water and a small brush. Follow the manufacture’s recommendations for disassembly and cleaning of the spray gun.
Yes, you can use this on bare ferrous metal. Many times there is still minor oxidation that this product will attack and protect. Be sure any oils, grease, or protective coatings are stripped from the bare metal before coating.
Yes, our product is ideal for all mild steel, stamped plates, cast iron, brackets, and other automotive parts.
Our product will protect your pan from further oxidation and thus extending its useful life.
We do not recommend using our rust converter under 50 degrees.
Applying the product with a spray gun is a very easy process. We recommend diluting the product 20% with water and running it through a strainer, fine enough to catch any particles that are larger than the openings in the tip. Only dilute what you are going to spray and discard any unused portion, just like any other coating. Clean the gun with simple water and a small brush. Follow the manufacture’s recommendations for disassembly and cleaning of the spray gun.
Concrete is no problem.
Absolutely not. Our product expands and contracts with heat and freezing temperatures. This is one of the things that make it so effective, is the ability to maintain solid adhesion despite temperature swings.
This product should not be used on soft metals, such as galvanizing. It is a low pH product that will etch into soft metals. If the galvanization is gone and it is only steel, our product will work well.
The product has not been tested with added dyes, we do not recommend this. It is preferred that you apply a topcoat in the color of your choosing.
Yes, the product has been used in many maritime applications with great success. It shows great adhesion when used with an epoxy primer.
The product should be fully cured, before applying another coat. Relative humidity, temperature, airflow, and sun exposure all affect curing; however, we recommend a baseline of 24-48 hours to cure completely.
The product should be fully cured, before applying another coat. Relative humidity, temperature, airflow, and sun exposure all affect curing; however, we recommend a baseline of 24-48 hours to cure completely.
No, it is not, it is a water-based product that cures through a typical evaporation process.
Yes, as long as there are no other contaminants such as oil or silicone. The presence of moisture in the line might affect the appearance of the final dried product as it could yield an inconsistent spray pattern.
It is best to use it up once it has been opened, but if you cannot…you should try to use the remainder within 3 months. It is imperative that you seal the container well to avoid the product drying out. Any unopened container should be used within 12 months and protected from freezing or superheating while in storage. Once the product has been applied and cured, freezing and heating are no longer an issue. This product is >50% solids, so it will settle over time, make sure to mix or shake it thoroughly before any use.
No, we do not recommend transferring leftovers into a smaller container. The instructions and product information label should always be on the container the product is housed.
It is best to put it down and leave it alone until it cures.
Yes, this product would work to protect almost any ferrous metal product.
No, this product is not for use on aluminum or galvanized steel.
This product has been successfully tested for expansion and contraction up to 300F and showed no issues with adhesion. The product might discolor at the higher range, but it did not affect the performance.
This product has been successfully tested for expansion and contraction up to 300F and showed no issues with adhesion. The product might discolor at the higher range, but it did not affect the performance.
Typically 24-48 hours depending on relative humidity, temperature, airflow, and sun exposure.
Our product has been tested up to 300F.
It is impossible to assess that with limited information. There are many other factors that come into play, but our product has been tested up to 300F.
Our product is no a weld-through primer, you will need to expose the bare metal to fuse it properly.
At 1.0mil dry thickness, you can cover about 1,000 sq feet. Any channels or brakes in the metal tend to collect additional material and affect the coverage. If your surface is perfectly flat and you are using a sprayer, we would recommend approximately 12 gallons plus a 10-15% overage, to cover any product lost in transfer, drift, or pooling.
It has been used in both saltwater applications as well as brackish water and performed well.